All Culinary Artist Ought to Learn Here’: Modest Turkish Eatery Ranks 4th on Ranking of London’s Leading Restaurants.

Whenever compiling a roll of London’s top dining spots, one might expect renowned Michelin-starred venues. Yet, nestled prominently among these gastronomic titans is a unpretentious salonu found in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Honour

This small Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. The accolade has made the proprietors utterly shocked.

“I am totally astonished,” states the family member, pointing to his family’s relentless work that culminated in their modest restaurant earning such a prominent position on a respected 99-strong list.

A Charm of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a basic cafe before its change into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its former charm. It accommodates just over 20 people and, beyond the vibrant live cooking display, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a small and stocky spot,” comments the owner.

A Signature Creation: Tantuni

However, it’s focused on the food, and this establishment more than succeeds. The eatery’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a straightforward joy. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a tender quality.

The meat is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in bit by bit. As the savoury mixture heats through, handmade lavaş—a thin, flexible bread—is placed on top to take in all the aromas. Thinly sliced onions and a sprinkling of parsley are placed before the tasty meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty burst of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and rich, paprika-red oil pulling it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is chopped and topped with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The respected food critic called this dish “among London’s few flawless, impeccable dishes”.

For a sweet finish, the restaurant’s künefe is a treat. It is doused in a more modest amount of syrup than usual, resulting in it a deeper, more aromatic and less sickly profile.

Surpassing the Giants

Notably, this unassuming spot has been placed higher than several renowned three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself just behind the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could readily leave the restaurant stuffed for under £25, comparable experiences at high-end establishments can cost many times that price.

The Ethos of Heart

The restaurant is also among several Turkish restaurants included and is situated well beyond the city’s most expensive zones. “It’s not concerning luxury. London is an expensive city. There is an belief that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and best food but I don’t agree with that,” says the owner.

“I feel what is paramount is hospitality, kindness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

The philosophy is shared by the list’s compiler, who stated that if he was in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London train at this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overthinking, and to reveal what is possible if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their absolute best”.

A Path of Hard Work

In contrast to many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the mastermind behind the food did not train at fancy restaurants. “I feel really happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants require years to establish themselves, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of effort.

“My mum used to be extremely tired. She would go shopping in the morning and create the food in the afternoon. Everything is made by hand; she would manage all of this. She is a solo parent and she balanced a personal life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to manage as well. Each of these duties forged her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s success is set to have meaning outside its own premises. “I believe a lot of people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, highlighting the broader importance of this gastronomic achievement.

Stephen Gordon
Stephen Gordon

A passionate traveler and writer dedicated to uncovering the world's hidden treasures and sharing authentic local experiences.